Cosmetic Ingredient Glossary

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By Cosmetic Chemist / Owner & Formulator of I 2 by Ivana K

From the All Natural Beauty website:

We provide this cosmetic ingredient glossary as a source of enlightenment. We are in no way advocating the use of, or advising to treat, diagnose or cure any illness or medical problem with any of the ingredients listed here. While this is an abundant list of ingredients, it is certainly not complete, and we will continue to update it as time goes on.

A

ABSOLUTES – When aromatic material from plants is extracted by solvents instead of distillation, it is called ‘absolutes’. The solvent is later removed and what remains is a liquid that is thicker, more viscous and generally more concentrated than essential oils. This method of extraction is used for material that is easily destroyed by heat, commonly flower petals. Traces of solvent may remain in absolutes.

ARGIRELINE – Acetyl hexapeptide-3. A chain of 6 aminoacids attached to acetic acid. Promoted as a topical substitute for Botox, since it has shown some relaxing effect on facial muscles, and thus on wrinkles. A novel ingredient, its efficacy with regular use and long-term safety are yet to be established. Synthetically produced.

ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C) – Necessary for normal teeth, bones and blood vessels, anti-oxidant, important for connective tissue. Soluble in water but also quickly disintegrates in solutions. More stable in a form of an ester: Ascorbyl Palmitate, or Ascorbyl Stearate.

B

BAKING SODA – Sodium bicarbonate. Relieves burns, itching, urticarial lesions and insect bites. Used in bath powders and as a common component in cosmetics for oily skin in homemade recipes.

C

D

DIAZOLIDINYL UREA – A synthetic preservative, it may be a sensitizer, it may also release formaldehyde.

DICHLOROPHENE – A fungicide and bactericide (preservative), closely related to hexachlorophene and a strong allergen.

DIMETHICONE – A silicone oil used in the cosmetic bases, as a topical drug vehicle and as a skin protector.

DMAE – Dimethylaminoethanol. Occurs naturally in fish, also produced synthetically. Used internally to increase cognitive abilities and memory, but very popular as an antiaging ingredient in creams in recent years. Some recent research indicates that it may have a rather powerful effect on cell metabolism.

E

E, VITAMIN – Tocopherol. Oil-soluble vitamin best known as an antioxidant. Involved in many vital metabolic processes.

EDTA – Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid and its salts. A chelating agent used to reduce metal ions in compounds, which helps the action of surfactants and preservatives.

EMULSIFYING WAX NF – A mixture of emulsifiers and emollients. Usually a combination of Cetearyl alcohol (natural), Ceteareth-20 (synthetic) and Polysorbate-60 (synthetic). NF stands for National Formulary and refers to American standard formula. Other countries may have slightly different combinations under the name of ‘emulsifying wax’.

ERYTHORBIC ACID – An isomer of Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), with only a fraction of its action. Used in food industry.

ERYTHROSINE – A coal tar derivative, used as pigment in cosmetics.

ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS – EFA. Linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic. Vitamin F. Linolenic has the greatest biological importance. They must be supplied through diet and their deficiency may lead to arrested growth, kidney and liver damage, anemia, eczema, inflammations of the skin and hair, scaling and more.

ETHANOL – Ethyl alcohol. See Alcohol.

ETHANOLAMINES – Monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA) and triethanolamine (TEA), they form soaps with fatty acids and are widely used as detergents and emulsifiers.

ETHOXYETHANOL – A solvent for nail polish and a stabilizer in cosmetics. Toxic. Ethoxyethanol acetate is not as toxic, also used in nail polishes.

ETHOXYLATED SURFACTANTS – Detergents, wetting agents and emulsifiers that have been treated with ethane gas and oxygen to make them more or less soluble.

ETHYL ACETATE – Naturally occurring in apples, bananas, grape juice, pineapple, strawberries and raspberries. It has a pleasant fruity odour. Used as a solvent in nail polishes and polish removers. It can be irritating to the skin and when inhaled.

EXTRACT – The solution that results from passing alcohol or alcohol-water mixture through a substance, usually plant material, with purpose of removing the active principles and making them easier to administer and measure than the raw material.

F

FARNESOL – Used in perfumery to emphasize the floral perfumes, such as lilac. Occurs naturally in ambrette seeds, cassia, star anise, linden flowers and more.

FATTY ACIDS – Solid or liquid, they are aliphatic monocarboxylic acids found in vegetable and animal fats, including waxes and butters. Capric, caprilyc, lauric, myristic, oleic, palmitic, stearic. They can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty acids frequently occur in ester form, including mono-, di-, and tri-glycerides and are obtained by hydrolysis of fats. Used in cosmetics as emollients, stabilizers, thickeners and more.

FATTY ACID ESTERS – Some are natural, like glycerides, waxes and butters, and most are synthetic, like detergents and other surfactants.

FATTY ALCOHOLS – Solid alcohols made from fatty acids. Cetyl, lauryl, oleyl, stearyl.

FIXATIVE – A chemical that reduces evaporation of a fragrance and it makes it lasts longer. Some are natural, some synthetic.

FORMALDEHYDE – A colourless gas obtained by oxidation of methyl alcohol. Its vapours are highly irritating to mucous membranes. Formaldehyde has been abandoned as preservative long time ago, but its derivatives have been in use. It is an ingredient in nail hardeners, nail polish and other cosmetics. Highly toxic.

G

GALACTURONIC ACID – Obtained from pectin, it is used in creams and lotions together with allantoin.

GELATIN – Animal protein used as a thickener and film-forming agent in food and cosmetic industry.

GERANIOL – Aromatic alcohol that is a component of many essential oils. Also geranyl acetate, geranyl butyrate esters, all are used in perfumery.

GLUCOSE – Natural sugar occurring in blood, fruits and some grains. Used in confectionery, and in cosmetics as an anti-irritant and filler.

GLUCOSE GLUTAMATE – Occurs naturally along with glucose. It is an ester of glucose and amino acid glutamic acid. Used as a humectant in cosmetics.

GLUCURONIC ACID – A carbohydrate widely distributed in animals.

GLUTAMIC ACID – A nonessential amino acid, usually manufactured from vegetable protein. It is widely present in a variety of foods; used in foods to enhance flavours and as salt substitute, also used to treat epilepsy and stomach ailments. In cosmetics, used as an antioxidant, and softener in permanent wave solutions to prevent hair damage. Also glutamates, its salts. Glutamic acid is responsible for one of the five basic tastes in the human sense of taste (umami).

GLUTAMINE – A nonessential amino acid.

GLYCERETH –12-26 – Polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerin. Used as emollients and emulsifiers in cosmetics. Synthetic.

GLYCERIDES – A large class of compounds that are esters of glycerin. Some are natural, some synthetic. Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides.

GLYCERIN – Glycerol. Widely present in natural fats and oils, both animal and vegetable. Can be produced naturally or synthetically. Occurs in a form of its many esters. It is thick, syrupy, and sweet. Used in cosmetics as humectant and emollient, in everything from lipsticks to hand creams.

GLYCO– Prefix which means ‘sweet’.

GLYCOLIC ACID – Organic alpha-hydroxy acid, occurs naturally in sugar cane juice and fruit. Used widely in creams or solutions in concentrations ranging from 5 – 70%. The higher the concentration the lower the pH and the greater the damage to the tissue (i.e. ‘chemical peel’).

GLYCOLIPIDS – Natural compounds in which sugar is attached to lipids. Their role is to provide energy and serve as cellular markers.

GLYCOPROTEINS – Compounds consisting of carbohydrate (sugar) and protein. They occur in extracellular areas, connective tissue, play important role in immuno response and reproductive cycle.

GLYCOLS – Propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol. Carbitol. Diethylene glycol. A group of syrupy alcohols derived from hydrocarbons (petroleum, coal) with two hydroxyl groups. Used in cosmetics as solvents and humectants. Since hydrocarbons occur in nature, although not as part of living organisms and not in a sense what most people would consider when they use a term ‘natural’, these alcohols can fall into that category, based on their source of origin. Propylene glycol is considered safe by many, and unsafe by just as many. The rest are recognized as more toxic.

GLYCOSIDES – Compounds in which sugar is bound to a non-sugar component, which can be easily released through hydrolysis. They are widely present in the living organisms and play very important roles in metabolism. Many drugs are found among glycosides.

GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS – Mucopolysaccharides. A group of polysaccharides that play important roles in the metabolism of animals. Used in anti-aging creams.

GLYYRRHETINIC ACID – From licorice root, used in soothing preparations, also as flavouring in foods.

GUANINE – Pearl essence. Obtained from the scales of certain fish, and used in nail polish, but now mostly replaced by synthetic pearl (bismuth oxychloride) or aluminum and bronze particles.

GUMS – Dried exudates from various plants obtained when the bark is injured. Water-soluble polysaccharides, used as thickeners. Acacia, tragacanth, locust bean, karaya, and more.

GUM RESINS – Resins. Also known as oleogums – insoluble in water. Myrrh, benzoin, and more.

H

HAIR BLEACH – Bleaching has been practiced for thousands of years. In Ancient Rome, quicklime was mixed with lime to produce reddish gold hues. The most common bleaching agent used today is hydrogen peroxide. Adverse reactions can include burned scalp, nausea, allergic reactions and swelling of the face.

HAIR COLOR RINSE – Temporary hair colour that covers only the cuticle layer of the hair and does not affect the natural pigment inside the shaft. The colors used are azo dyes. Reactions that occur can be caused by any of the accompanying ingredients used, including the dyes.

HAIR COLORING – Permanent hair colouring will change the pigment of the hair and will remain as such until the new hair grows, or is being cut. There are natural or synthetic organic colors, and metallics. Natural are henna and camomile, they are more difficult to work with to produce the desired shade. Synthetic dyes, such as amino- and para- derivatives, work by oxidation. When applied, the development of the shade will depend on the release of oxygen from another compound, such as hydrogen peroxide. Allergic reactions and skin rashes are common. Some of the dyes are suspected to be carcinogenic.

HAIR CONDITIONERS – The are supposed to undo the damage from other hair preparations, like bleaches and dyes, also the drying effect from the detergents in shampoos, or the sun. Conditioners include humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, urea) , finishing agents (isopropyl myristate, balsam) and emulsions (natural or synthetic).

HAIR LACQUERS AND SPRAYS – They usually contain polyvinylpyrrrolidone (PVP), similar to plastics, which stiffens the hair. There are also glycerin, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, cetyl alcohol, silicone, and many other ingredients. The propellant in aerosols is usually freon. Most sprays can cause eye damage and lung irritations. Pump sprays are a safer choice over aerosols.

HERBAL SHAMPOOS – They mostly contain saponins, a group of compounds found in many plants. Saponins can produce foam, although not nearly as much as detergents, they can also help with emulsifying. Saponins can be irritating to the skin.

HESPERIDIN – A natural bioflavonoid.

HEXACHLOROPHENE – A synthetic preservative. It was widely used in baby products and acne preparations in the 60s. Original developers who held the patent would only sell it to the companies that proved that they were using this compound safely, and not for toothpaste and mouthwashes, but after the patent expired no restrictions were made. It has been shown as toxic, also that it is absorbed through the skin, and it has been largely replaced by a similar product Triclosan (see entry).

HEXANOL – Hexyl alcohol. Occurs naturally in seeds and fruits of certain plants. Used as antiseptic and preservative.

HISTIDINE – An essential amino acid, used as nutrient.

HUMECTANT – A substance used to preserve the moisture content of the material i.e. prevent drying. Glycerin, propylene glycol and sorbitol and most widely used humectants.

HYALURONIC ACID – Hyaluronan. A non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan distributed widely throughout the connective, epithelial and neural tissues. One of the chief components of the extracellular matrix and important in cell proliferation and migration. Widely used in cosmetics.

HYDROCARBONS – A large class of organic compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen. Petroleum, coal, natural gas, bitumen are all hydrocarbons. Term ‘petrochemicals’ refers to petrolatum, mineral oils, paraffin wax, ozokerite. Widely used in cosmetics.

HYDROGENATION – Process used to convert liquid oils into semi-solid. Hydrogenated oils are usually more stable and less susceptible to rancidity.

HYDROLYSIS – Decomposition of a compound in the presence of water. Examples can be anything from hydrolyzed proteins to esters, salts, carbohydrates and more. Essential in many metabolic processes.

HYDROQUINONE – Occurs naturally but mostly manufactured now. Used as a bleaching agent. It has many toxic effects if ingested or injected, on the skin it can cause allergic reactions.

I

IMIDAZOLE – Used to control pest, derived from benzene (a solvent obtained from coal), an inhibitor of growth instead of a poison.

IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA – The most commonly used cosmetic preservative after parabens. It is also the second most identified cosmetic preservative to cause contact dermatitis. No known toxicity.

INOSITOL – A dietary supplement of the vitamin B family, found in plant and animal tissue. Isolated commercially from corn.

ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE – A widely used fatty acid ester derived from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid. It was discovered to be comedogenic, which is reducing its application. The danger comes from nitrate compounds, which appear as an impurity in many cosmetic preparations, and isopropyl myristate increases their absorption.

J

JUGLONE – A colouring for hair dyes. It is the active colouring agent in walnuts. When mixed with an alkali, it gives a purplish red colour. No known skin toxicity.

JUNIPER TAR – Oil of Cade. The volatile oil from the wood of a pine tree. Dark brown, viscous, with a smoky odour and acrid taste. It is used in skin care preparations as an antiseptic and healing agent.

K

KAOLIN – A white or yellowish clay, found originally in China. Used widely in make-up. Also in production of porcelain, pottery and bricks.

KATHON CG – Octhilinone. A fungicide and bactericide used in cosmetics and shampoos. Effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and fungi. Effective in low concentrations. Not toxic but it can cause sensitivities.

KERATIN – Animal protein obtained from the horns, hoofs, feathers, quills and hairs of various animals. Used in hair products.

KERATOLYTICS – Products that loosen skin flakes and remove them easily from the skin surface. Useful in removing warts. Now extremely popular in strong ‘chemical’ peels.

KOHL – A preparation of antimony or soot mixed with other ingredients, used originally in the Middle East to darken the edges of eyelids. It is even applied on the lids of infants sometimes. It increases the lead levels in blood. Incidents of adverse reactions are very high. Kohl that contains lead is prohibited for use or sale.

L

LACTIC ACID – Normally present in blood and muscle tissue as a metabolic by-product of glucose and glycogen. Present in sour milk, beer, sauerkraut and other products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in skin care peels and fresheners. It can be caustic if in high concentration.

LANOLIN – Wool wax, Wool Fat. A product of the oil glands of sheep. A water-absorbing and a natural emulsifying material, also emollient. Chemically it is a wax instead of a fat. Different fractions of lanolin are used, i.e. lanolin alcohols, lanolin oil. It is well absorbed by the skin, partly because it is rather similar to the sebum in human skin. It causes allergic reactions in some instances. It is widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Due to the pesticide residue found in lanolin, there are now highly purified forms available.

LAURIC ACID – A common constituent of vegetable fats, especially coconut oil and palm kernel oil. It is widely used to produce detergents and surfactants with high foaming properties. Like all fatty acids, an emollient and a thickener.

LAURIC ALCOHOL – A fatty alcohol used much like its acid.

LECITHIN – A natural antioxidant, emollient, emulsifier and spreading agent. It is found in all living organisms and commercially obtained from egg yolk and soya beans.

LEUCINE – An essential amino acid.

LINALOOL – Occurs naturally in many essential oils, and it has a strong floral scent. Also Linalyl acetate.

LINOLEIC ACID – An essential fatty acid.

LIPIDS – A class of lipophilic substances that together with proteins and carbohydrates constitute the structure of cells. Lipids include fats, oils, waxes, phospholipids, steroids and others. In cosmetic preparations, they are emollient and moisturizing.

LIPOSOMES – Microscopic spheres manufactured from a variety of fatty substances, including phospholipids. When properly mixed with water, phospholipids form liposome spheres, which can trap any substance that will dissolve in water or oil. They are used as delivery system through the skin.

LIPSTICK – Primarily a mixture of oil and wax with dye dispersed in the oil, with the effect of staining the lips. The problems with lipsticks can come from the dyes used.

LYSINE – An essential amino acid.

M

MAGNESIUM AND ITS SALTS – Used as thickeners, colouring and anticaking agents, perfume carrier. Nontoxic. Magnesium sulfate is also known as Epsom salts, used as a bath salt to relive muscle tension and stress, also to prevent certain seizures.

MATRIXYL – Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. A chain of 5 aminoacids attached to palmitic acid (a fatty acid), which enhances its absorption. Demonstrated positive effect on the dermal matrix and increased production of collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans, but results in vivo are varied between different individuals. As far as anti-wrinkle ingredients go, it doesn’t have the side-effects of Retin-A, but it is a new ingredient and the long-term effects are yet to be established.

MENTHOL – It can be obtained naturally from peppermint and other mint oils. It cools the skin and is used in cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries. A local anesthetic. Nontoxic in low doses but if higher than 3% it can be irritating.

MERCURY COMPOUNDS – Mercury salts were widely used in bleaching creams but were banned in the 1970s when it was established that prolonged use resulted with mercury accumulation in the body. Mercury can be absorbed through the skin and the toxicity is high.

METHANOL – Methyl alcohol. Wood alcohol. Obtained by distillation of wood. Flammable and poisonous. Better solvent than ethyl alcohol.

METHIONINE – An essential amino acid.

METHYL ACETATE – Occurs naturally in coffee and peppermint oil, with a pleasant apple odour. Used in perfumery to emphasize floral notes, also as a solvent for many resins and oils. It may be irritating to the respiratory tract.

METHYL PARABEN – One of the most widely used preservatives in cosmetics. Can cause allergic reactions and it is considered by the industry as a relatively nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nontoxic. This and other parabens are usually the target of those who seek natural products but in fact very few products are paraben-free.

METHYL SALICYLATE – Oil of Wintergreen. An anti-inflammatory, local anesthetic, and disinfectant used in toothpaste, and mouthwashes, also in food industry. Obtained from the sweet birch, cassie and wintergreen, but could be also synthetic. Can be a strong irritant to the skin and mucous membranes.

METHYL SULFONYL METHANE – MSM, dimethylsulfone. An organic sulfur compound that occurs naturally in some plants. Popular as a supplement and treatment for osteoarthritis. Although there are studies supporting the claims, they are a few and not considered substantial enough at this stage.

MICA – A group of minerals that separate into thin sheets. They vary in colour and can be used as a lubricant and a colouring in cosmetics. Nontoxic to the skin.

MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX – Any of various plastic materials that are obtained from petroleum. Different from paraffin waxes in that they have a higher melting point, higher viscosity and much finer crystals. Used in nail polishes and make-up.

MINERAL OIL – A mixture of refined liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Used widely in cosmetics, including baby products. Considered nontoxic.

MUCILAGE – A solution in water of the sticky parts of the vegetable substances. Used as soothing applications to the mucous membranes.

MUCOUS MEMBRANES –The thin layers of tissue that line the respiratory, genital and intestinal tracts and are kept moist by a sticky substance called mucus. These membranes line the nose and the mouth as well and are often exposed to air.

MYRISTIC ACID – A fatty acid that occurs naturally in butters, coconut oil and most animal and vegetable fats. Used as most other fatty acids, also its alcohol, myristic alcohol.

N

NAIL POLISH – Usually contain cellulose nitrate, butyl acetate, alkyl esters, toluene, glycol derivatives, gums, hydrocarbons (aromatic and aliphatic), ketones, phosphoric acid and more. Many different irritations can be reported.

NAIL POLISH REMOVER – It contains mostly the same ingredients like the nail polish, without the dyes, and with addition of acetone. Some of the components are very toxic and can cause different kinds of irritation and damage.

NIACIN, NIACINAMIDE – Nicotinic acid. Nicotinamide. Part of the vitamin B complex.

NITROCELLULOSE – Esters obtained by adding nitrate to cellulose. Solid and flammable. Used in skin protective creams, nail polishes, and polish removers. No known toxicity.

NITROSAMINES – Found in many foods, they can be produced under certain conditions in the stomach as well. They are regulated in food industry, where nitrates are used in curing meats, but they also appear as impurities in cosmetics. All amines or amides are capable of forming nitrosamines under favourable conditions. Ethanolamide surfactants (DEA, MEA, TEA) are the obvious suspects. Nitrosamines are proven carcinogenic in animals, but it is not known how or at what levels they become carcinogens in humans. They are present in varied degrees in many aspects of everyday life. But it is believed that tobacco is as toxic as it is through nitrosamines. Ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, has shown to protect against nitrosamines. This is due to its antioxidant activity. Of other natural antioxidants, vitamin E is very good, and so may be other antioxidants as well.

NITROUS OXIDE – Laughing gas. Used as a propellant in pressurized cosmetic containers. In higher dosage it is a depressant and narcotic.

NONIONIC SURFACTANTS – A group of emulsifiers that don’t have an electric charge. Can be natural or synthetic.

NONOXYNOL COMPOUNDS – Used as nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetics. Synthetic.